It is always great to get back to anchoring out after a marina stay, even though certain things are easier (getting some walks in, seeing sites, rubbish removal, boat cleaning, laundry, provisioning, procuring parts for all the big and little things that need fixing..), it is hot, crowded and noisy at the dock. Anchoring out means space around you ( not a given in the Med but easier around the Peloponnise for sure!), breezes and swims in clear water.
4 hours later we dropped the hook in Kolivri, a sandy bay just before the last cape and just down from Finikounda. Dakini had arrived a little ahead of us and had invited us for dinner that night. Super people (English and Swiss), and it was nice to spend some time hearing all about their cruising and life experiences, while enjoying the calm conditions. (This was also where we got the excellent tip to burn coffee grounds to keep the wasps away, which works like magic!) The next morning a southerly started and it was time to move up to the relative protection of Pylos for a 4-5 day Norther that was due.
Pylos was a massive Bay with the best protection being in the far NW corner where there was sand and better depths for anchoring. There were ruins on an island to port as you entered, and a large Fort complex on starboard near the town. Unfortunately the best anchorage was also 2 nautical miles from the town of Pylos, which was supposed to be the architectural equivilant of a provincal French town. Down our end was a shallow channel out to the sea, a big lagoon behind the bay, and ruins of another Fort on the hill above. There were a lot of day boats coming and going (20 foot rigid inflabables and small ski boats), and one drifted across our bow. When he started his outboard there was a loud clunky screech as the prop hit the anchor chain.. We were glad he missed the rope bridle though. (Before we left the anchorage 5 days later, another day boat tried to tie off to our anchor bouy, which we had been warned about by Sandy and Doug, who had it happen to them earlier in the season).
The morning after we arrived was the only calm one, so we took full advantage and got the paddle board out. I did a tour around the anchorage and the channel out to the sea, but Todd did an epic adventure. Yep, he went through the channel, up the coast and into a small horseshoe shaped bay. The wind had filled in and it was too rough to return the same way by then, so he hiked the board over a burm and into the big lagoon infront of the anchorage. He couldn’t see the lay of the land, so skirted around the lagoon until he found another channel out to the anchorage..through a fish farm. There were a few unders and overs and a hike through some rushes before he popped back out into the anchorage and paddled the last quarter mile back to the boat..quite the biathlon!
The wind blew all day and then died at night for the next 5 nights. I did take the dinghy to shore for a hike up to the old castle and fort near the anchorage, the next morning before it was too windy. The ocean outside the bay was full of white topped breaking waves, and there were panoramic views over the horse shoe bay, lagoon, and anchorage. Todd didn’t need any more exercise after his massive effort the day before, so stayed aboard and monitored the walkie talkie. (This was a good thing as when I returned to the dinghy I couldn’t get the outboard to start, and I had to paddle in the windy conditions. I made it half way back before another dinghy took pitty and towed me the rest of the way. I was sure I would have made it, and Todd was on deck with a throw line to toss me in the event that I was drifting past, but it was still a relief to get the tow).
The closest stores were in the village of Giolava. The day before we left, we did a quick run in to drop the rubbish and pick up some fresh supplies. It was a cute place catering to mostly Greek vacationers. We had planned to stay for lunch, but the wind had picked up (over 20 knots), and it was going to be a wet ride back if we dallied.
The following morning we would be heading North to Katakolon where we hoped to spend a couple of days and get up to Olympus, the birthplace of the Olympic games. After prepping for departure, it was an early night aboard.
What a wonderful time! Feels like I’m on holiday. Enjoy and stay safe.